Metals Defined
Metals come in so many colors and finishes, it is sometimes difficult to know exactly what you need. When selecting metal beads, findings, and chain use our handy chart to help you make the perfect selection.
| Metal | Composition | Characteristics |
|---|---|---|
| Brass | Alloy of 70% copper and 30% zinc; tin and antimony are sometimes added as anti-tarnish measure | Brass has a muted yellow color which is somewhat similar to gold. Yellow brass has more zinc; red brass has more copper. It is relatively resistant to tarnishing, and is often used as decoration and for coins. |
| Bronze | Alloy (mixture) of approximately 90% copper and 10% tin | Bronze is a tin alloy of copper which is harder than either of the alloy metal ingredients. It is extremely strong and resistant to corrosion. It has been used since prehistoric times to forge tools, weapons, statues, and ornaments. |
| Copper | Chemical element with the symbol Cu | Copper is a soft metal, so most copper beads and findings are actually pewter or brass coated with copper. It tarnishes quickly so it should be stored in an airtight container. |
| Pewter | Alloy (mixture) of at least 90% tin with antimony and copper | Originally, pewter was cast with lead. Today it is generally cast without lead, although imports from China can still contain lead. ‘Britannia’ metal is a non-leaded form of pewter. |
| Rhodium | A rarely occurring member of the platinum metals group | Rhodium is used as a protective layer over electroplated surfaces because of its hardness and high reflectivity, and its extraordinary resistance to corrosive substances. Electroplated surfaces that are coated with rhodium are scratch resistant and will not discolor or tarnish. Over time, however, the rhodium coating can wear off if over-polished or treated harshly. |
| Fine Silver | .999 silver is 99.9% pure silver | Fine silver is generally too soft for most jewelry components. |
| Sterling Silver | Alloy (mixture) of 92.5% silver and 7.5% copper (or other metal) | Because silver is a soft metal, the addition of other metals makes sterling silver suitable for jewelry. The natural patina that develops on sterling silver is due to the copper content. When sterling silver comes into prolonged contact with ozone, hydrogen sulfide, sulfur, perspiration, household chemicals, industrial chemicals, lotions, hairsprays, and perfumes, the tarnish rate increases. It can be minimized by storing jump rings/jewelry in anti-tarnish tissue, zip plastic bag, or airtight container. |
| Argentium Sterling Silver | Sterling silver alloy (mixture) which has had some of the 7.5% copper replaced with the metalloid germanium (a natural chemical element with properties between those of metals and nonmetals) | In silver alloys, the main strengthener is copper, which reacts easily with oxygen, moisture, and sulfides to create tarnish. Germanium chemically bonds with oxygen to form a protective barrier that prevents sulfides in the air from having contact with the smaller percentage of copper in the alloy, thus inhibiting tarnish. When stored in anti-tarnish tissue, zip plastic bag or airtight container, argentium sterling silver may never tarnish at all. |
| Silver-Fill | A layer of sterling silver that has been mechanically bonded to a brass core | Like gold-fill is to karat gold, silver-fill is a cost effective alternative to sterling silver. Depending upon the manufacturer, it is at least 1/10th by weight .925 silver and has a significantly thicker layer of silver than traditional silver plating. The fabrication is completed with an anti-tarnish coating. It has the same properties as sterling silver so it can be lightly hammered, soldered and tumbled. Tool Magic on tools helps prevent scratches, and a nylon hammer is best for work hardening. |
| Silver Plate | Inexpensive base metal and coated with a thin layer of silver, usually around 0.05 millimeters or less | Plating is used primarily because it is more economical. Over time, the plating can wear off or become scratched. The extent to which this occurs depends on the thickness of the plating and the color of the underlying material. |
| Gold Fill | A layer of gold surrounding a base metal core | Gold-fill is usually described as a fraction, such as 14/20. The first number refers to the number of karats of gold of a total 24 karats. The second number means that the gold layer is 1/20 the total thickness of the wire. The layer of gold in a gold-fill jump ring is about 100 times thicker than the gold in a plated layer, and it will not flake off. |
| Gold Overlay | A thin layer of gold over a less expensive metal | The gold layer constitutes less than 1/20th of the weight of the metal, but it is substantially thicker than gold plate. |
| Gold Plate | Plating is a surface covering in which a metal is deposited on a conductive surface | The gold layer is not less than 10 karat fineness and the minimum thickness of the plating is one-half micron (or approximately 20 millionths of an inch) of gold. |
| Vermeil (vermáy) | Sterling silver plated with gold | To be considered vermeil, the gold must be at least 10 carat (42%) and be at least 2.5 micrometres thick. In the US, sterling silver covered with a base metal (such as nickel) and plated with gold cannot be sold as vermeil without disclosing that it contains base metal. |
| Surgical Steel | Made of chromium, nickel, and molybdenum | A stainless steel used for medical instruments. The word "surgical" refers to the fact that this type of steel is well-suited for making medical instruments: they are easy to clean and sterilize, strong, and corrosion-resistant. |